Lifestyles
A Rich Pour - Column No. 12: Off the Beaten Track
In this instalment of A Rich Pour, Cigar Weekly Managing Editor Doug Kuebler (jazznut) veers from the tried and true to highlight a few of his red wine discoveries from less renowned regions of the globe.
A revolution of sorts is taking place in the wine world – one that has producers in prominent regions as far afield as Bordeaux, Burgundy, Napa, Piedmont, Rioja and Tuscany looking over their shoulders. This ground-breaking change transcends innovative vinification techniques and reaches back to the primary factors lying behind any notable wine – good soil, a cooperative climate, healthy, ripe grapes and, most importantly, people with a penchant for rising to challenges and for creating something truly unique.
In some instances, the revolution entails establishment of entirely new sites. In other cases, it involves the reclaiming of abandoned plots that haven’t seen a tended grapevine in eons or, often, the rejuvenation of supposedly second-string sites through the planting of noble grape varieties. But wherever and however it occurs, this phenomenon offers drinkers the promise of tasty wines at tasty prices. No longer need consumers be blinded by the hype surrounding many of the great wines of the world. There are options, and lots of them.
I’ve seen the cost of many a Grand Cru Bordeaux or New World classic, be it Château Haut Brion, Beaulieu Georges de Latour Reserve or Grange Hermitage, increase exponentially over the last 25 years. For me, this wallet-depleting reality has made the seeking out of lesser-known, reasonably priced wines seem akin to walking into a 5-cent candy store. And I have! I’d therefore like to share with you my impressions of a few ‘up-and-coming’ red table wines. Many of these wines are already garnering widespread praise while others remain, as yet, deserving of greater attention.
PRICE INDEX
The prices of the wines are divided into the following ranges:
1 = Under 15 dollars (Canadian)
2 = 15 to 20 dollars (Canadian)
3 = 20 to 25 dollars (Canadian)
4 = Over 25 dollars (Canadian) – the maximum being under $50
(These prices correspond to those presently listed by Société des Alcools de Québec, and they may vary upward or downward in other market sectors depending on distribution costs, mark-ups, currency rates and taxes.)
TUNISIA
Portugal, Spain, France, Italy and, perhaps, Greece are countries that immediately spring to mind when considering the scope of Mediterranean grapevine growing. But cast an eye across the waters of the Mediterranean Sea toward the north of Africa, and one might be surprised to find wineries thriving in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia.
Domaine Neferis Selian Carignan
Sidi Salem, Grombalia
It is indeed rare to happen upon a wine fermented entirely from Carignan grapes, let alone one crafted in a predominantly Muslim nation by a woman. Samia Benali’s 2005 Selian (Benali works in tandem at Domaine Neferis with another young and talented winemaker, Tamara Washington from New Zealand) is just such a rarity.
Leave any preconceptions you may have of Carignan as simply a source of cheap bulk table wine, or of North African wines as over-baked brutes, at the doorstep. This purple-tinged, ruby-red gem oozes bright fruit flavours enhanced with subtle notes of figs and spiced oak. Balanced and altogether quite charming, I’d say, with just enough individuality to set it apart from the mainstream.
Why wait? It’s ready to pour and enjoy.
Price range: 2
LEBANON
The Bekaa valley offers a wonderful locale in which to grow wine grapes. However, as Serge Hochar of Château Musar can attest to, one has to be willing to brave the fallout of political instability, even to the point of dodging the odd artillery shell. His red wines, made principally from Cabernet, Cinsault and Carignan, sometimes with a small amount of Syrah as well, prove the wisdom of running that risk.
Naysayers have, at times, chastised the presence of some volatile acidity in Hochar's reds. But then, similar criticisms have been levelled at Vega Sicilia Unico and Grange Hermitage, two of the wine world's acknowledged masterpieces.
Musar Cuvée Rouge
Bekaa valley
The 2003 Cuvée Rouge represents a more accessible – both taste-wise and cost-wise – non-oaked edition within the estate’s line of wines. Colour-wise, it displays a quite light cranberry red hue. The unusual aroma speaks of plum liqueur, dried flowers and old closets – I’d swear the wine has seen seasoned oak at some point, even though it hasn’t. And the flavour is equally paradoxical, providing a very precise evocation of raspberries allied to a persistent underlying earthiness – I’m reminded of rusted iron and clay. Structurally, the Cuvée Rouge leans more to the bristling Beaujolais-like penetrating acidity spectrum rather than the tannic blockbuster style. In this sense, it sacrifices depth for penetration. An authentic and unique wine experience, all told.
If the Cuvée Rouge works for you, you might just want to spring for a bottle or two of Château Musar to lay away for a decade or so.
Price range: 2
GREECE
For a nation boasting a winemaking tradition reaching back to the time of the Phoenicians, Greece waited a good long while to make itself better known to the wine-buying public – the ubiquitous Retsina and Muscat of Samos notwithstanding. Now, however, the pace of transformation in the vineyards, from Macedonia to the isles, is nothing short of feverish. Add to this veritable renaissance the rediscovery of a plethora of unique, indigenous grape varieties, and Greece finally seems ready to assume its rightful place among the great winegrowing nations.
Tsantali Rapsani Reserve
Rapsani
The vineyards of Rapsani lie in the foothills near Mount Olympus. 2004 Tsantali Rapsani Reserve is produced from roughly equal amounts of the native Xinomavro, Krassato and Stavrotó grapes, and spends a fair time in oak and bottle prior to release. This is a generous, well rounded, fairly mature tasting and easy drinking sort of wine with a good core of berry and plum fruit as well as a subtle roasted sensation on the finish – the latter feature likely derived from the wood influence.
It’s versatile enough to pair successfully with a wide variety of dishes. I like it.
Price range: 2
FRANCE
The southern region of France, where hillsides rise above the Mediterranean coastline and reach inland to sun-drenched recesses, has become a prime hunting ground for exceptional reds at ‘quaffable’ prices. By and large, these wines are ready to drink upon release. But as always, there is the odd surprise!
Château de Nages Cuvée Joseph Torres
Costières de Nîmes
The 2002 edition of Michel Gassier’s excellent Cuvée Joseph Torres marks the 6th vintage of this wine to pass over my palate. In fact, I've consumed so many bottles over the years as to lose track of the number. I’ve never been disappointed. This exceptional wine, produced essentially from old-growth Syrah (the 2002 also contains a smidgen of Mourvèdre), is made to satisfy, being at once solid, supple and harmonious. There are ripe berries aplenty amidst the gamey and spicy notes on the finish.
Try it. You will become a believer.
Price range: 2
Magellan Ponant
Vins de pays des Cotes de Thongue
This wine actually originates from the Languedoc region of southern France, and is the brainchild of Bruno Lafon, a member of the famous Burgundian family. There's a nice melding of ripe fruit and warm spice in the 2005 that immediately attracts. And the texture is quite lovely, with supporting tannins seamlessly underpinning the well-defined and vibrant primary flavours.
Apparently, this rather large property underwent a substantial revitalization during the 1960s and 1970s, only to lay abandoned following the owner's passing. Now Lafon’s new team has resurrected the estate with great success.
What's particularly amazing about this wine is its cost. Can you say, "House wine?" I can!
Price range: 1
Domaine d’Aupilhac
Montpeyroux, Coteaux du Languedoc
Try the delicious 2005 Domaine d'Aupilhac alongside a crusted rack of lamb, and I guarantee your taste buds will be enthralled. Here is a well-nigh perfect wine and food pairing, the exuberant dark berry notes and substantial yet smooth tannins of the d'Aupilhac counterpointing the richness of the lamb at every sip and bite.
Some 25 kilometers west of Montpellier, Sylvain Fadat melds a healthy proportion of high-extract Mourvèdre with Syrah, Carignan, Grenache and Cinsault. The result is a very consistent and structured wine exhibiting a blackish-purple red hue in its youth, ideally suited to medium-term cellaring.
Domaine d’Aupilhac unquestionably represents one of the emerging 'stars' of the south of France.
Price range: 3
Château de Pennautier Collection Privée
Cabardès
Comte Nicolas de Lorgeril’s magisterial estate lies a bit to the west of Minervois, close to Carcassone, and benefits climate-wise from a maritime influence. The tradition of winemaking here stretches back to the Roman occupation, though the present estate dates ‘only’ from the 17th Century.
Château de Pennautier 2003 Collection Privée is a savvy confluence of Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec, Syrah and Grenache. Does this sound like a Bordeaux-Rhône blend? Well, it's actually much more stylish than such a simple description would lead you to believe – a nicely crafted, forward and balanced wine, in fact, made to go with food rather than obscure it.
Though very good right out of the bottle, it can age over the short term. The price is right, too.
Price range: 2
Château de la Tuilerie Cuvée Eole
Costières de Nîmes
Chantal Comte’s Château de la Tuilerie Vieilles Vignes pleases year in and year out (Price range: 3). But if you’re willing to shell out roughly 40% more, you owe it to yourself to try her 2001 Cuvée Eole Rouge, a sublime wine I’d happily put up against many a top-flight Burgundy or Bordeaux.
The best grapes – essentially Syrah, though periodically enhanced with a small percentage of Grenache – are harvested from old vines, fermented and then aged in new oak, resulting in a headily aromatic wine with a multifaceted flavour spectrum. And the tannins are, as the French would say, “Soyeux.” It does benefit from cellaring, however. Let it rest a few years.
Price range: 4
Château Les Pins
Côtes du Roussillon Villages
Produced by a dynamic cooperative, Château Les Pins makes for a consistently satisfying and affordable pour. This is a fairly big, generous red with considerable fruit extraction and ripe tannins.
The 2003 displays a lovely eau-de-vie quality, and seems extremely well balanced for a wine from such a notoriously hot vintage. You can drink it young to capture the densely plush texture, or age it a couple of years in order to allow the secondary aromas and flavours to more fully emerge.
Price range: 3
SPAIN
Spain, with roughly 40% more land given over to grapevines than either France or Italy, is a force to reckon with in the wine world. Yet its importance to the wine consumer extends far beyond mere statistics. This is a nation that has experienced tremendous growth in its officially designated wine regions as well as in the production of quality wines. From Bierzo, Ribera del Duero and Priorat in the north to Valencia, Valdepeñas, Yecla and Jumilla further to the south, the stream of noteworthy offerings continues to expand. Viva España!
Tres Picos
Borsao
For lovers of Garnacha (Grenache), Tres Picos represents a simply wonderful find at a relatively modest cost. This particular Borsao is produced from old grapevines grown on high altitude terraces, and aims to please.
The 2004 vintage clocks in at a healthy 14.5% alcohol by volume, and flaunts a very youthful deep red hue with some purple tones. Though definitely leaning to the full bodied, extractive end of the textural spectrum, it’s not in the least overblown, evidencing an uncanny sense of balance and vibrancy as it layers smoothly over the palate and lingers. Tres Picos comes across as warm and enveloping in a southern Rhône sort of way, yet also possesses a crisp focus to the fruit that sets it apart. Still and all, this is not a wine to mess around with.
I have noticed a wee bit of bottle variation, with some samples positively singing out berry fruit while others display a slightly more sultry earth and spice-dominated demeanour. Such inconsistencies are almost certainly related to recent shipment, and I would expect them to resolve once the wines have recovered from their journeys.
I've served this wine with crusted rack of lamb, rib-eye roast, and honey and bourbon basted beef ribs, and it has paired all of these dishes with panache. The 2005 and 2006 are equally noteworthy, by the way.
For me, Tres Picos constitutes one of those 'don't even think, just pick up the bottle' wines. Bring on the barbecue!
Price range: 3
Pétalos
Bierzo
Pétalos emanates from the Bierzo region in the northwestern portion of Spain. Alvaro Palacios, of Priorat fame, has sent his winemaking tentacles out to this old and somewhat forgotten (until now) area to produce this dark and very fruit-driven wine from grapes harvested from old, indigenous Mencía vines.
The 2005 version represents a superb pour for anyone seeking to get away from the all-too-common, fleshy, smooth-drinking Cabernets and Merlots of the world, as it flaunts a unique style full of unabashed verve. The acidic structure may take a bit of getting used to, but it really works in the overall context of the wine. My very first sip of this one prompted memories of my initial encounter with Portugal’s inimitable Barca Velha – a good sign! I can see Pétalos providing many enjoyable moments this summer next to the grill.
Having so enjoyed the 2005 vintage of this as yet relatively unknown (and hence undervalued) wine, how could I possibly resist the latest vintage to hit the shelves? True to form, the 2006 positively sings focused dark berry fruit – Morello cherries, blackberries, and even perhaps hints of blueberries – on the palate, with a lithe tannic structure and crisp acidity serving to further highlight the freshly conveyed ripeness. If you haven't tried this one yet, you're missing the early market days of a very, very fine wine.
I do see certain similarities between this Mencía-derived wine from Bierzo and some of the Tempranillo-based wines from Ribera del Duero in terms of the vibrancy and concentration of the fruit-driven flavours. But I suspect this has more to do with the relative altitudes at which the grapes are grown in both regions rather than with the grape varieties themselves. For instance, I find the overall flavour spectrum of the Pétalos quite distinct from that of most of the reds I've tried from the Rioja and Navarra regions.
Price range: 4
Bodegas Juan Gil Silver Label
Jumilla
While roasting a leg of lamb for dinner one night, I find myself debating as to what might make a good vinous match, and settle upon a wine I've not tried before - a 2004 from Bodegas Juan Gil, produced exclusively from grapes harvested from old-growth Monastrell vines in Jumilla. A winner!
I’m immediately beguiled by the lovely, fragrant nose of the wine. An initial sensation of super-ripeness – teetering on the edge of overt Port-like sweetness – arrives on the palate, deftly held in check by a substantial yet smoothly textured tannic backdrop. The experience is proof positive that Spain currently ranks near the top of my list in terms of providing fine value gems with true character. This one’s good to go, too. And the 2005 promises to be just as delicious, if not more so.
Founded in 1916 by Juan Gil Giménez, Bodegas Juan Gil is currently being run by the 4th generation of the same family. The sandy, chalky and rocky surface soils of the vineyards lie at around 700 meters of altitude, and experience low levels of rainfall. Conservative yields from 40-year old vines and 12 months in French oak only add to the lustrous quality of the wine.
There has been some debate as to whether or not Monastrell is related to the Mourvèdre grape, as cultivated in Bandol and other regions of southern France. Nonetheless, certain similarities in style between the Spanish and French expressions, not to mention that Mourvèdre appears to have been named after the Spanish locale of Murviedro, point to a common heritage.
Price range: 3
Condado de Haza Reserva Selección Robles Francés
Ribera del Duero
Anyone who has ever popped the cork on a bottle of Pesquera knows about Alejandro Fernández. With his acquisition and development of the Condado de Haza vineyards, Fernandez has further expanded his horizon for producing top-quality Tempranillo-based wines in the Ribera del Duero region.
There need be no apologies here as regards compromise. Full bodied and deeply textured, its dense, scintillating fruit embellished by nuances of toasted oak, cocoa, coffee, leather and pepper, the 2000 Reserva Selección Robles Francés sings a marvellous song. If the admission cost of this special cuvée (reared exclusively in French oak) seems a tad steep, rest assured you won’t go far wrong with the regular American oak aged editions either (Price range: 3).
And should you be reminded of the focused high altitude berry flavours of a Sterling Vineyards Diamond Mountain Cabernet from Napa, well... That’s surely not a bad thing. Right?
Price range: 4
Quinta Quietud
Toro
Aged 16 months in French and American oak, the 2002 Quinta Quietud represents the apotheosis of a modern wine, bursting forth with sensations of ripe fruit harvested beneath the Iberian sun. It's as dark as the night. It's big. It's tannic. And it's very generously oaked. Yet there's something distinctly Spanish about its style, hinted at by the fact that the sheer, exhilerating intensity of its flavour presentation arrives within a framework of exemplary balance.
This is, quite simply, a sleeping giant of a wine. Look for it to evolve very well as it slumbers in your cellar over the next few years.
Price range: 4
PORTUGAL
Like its Iberian neighbour, Spain, Portugal appears ready to set the wine world ablaze. Having weathered past political difficulties and an awkward transition upon entering the European Economic Community, this country’s wine producers are finally beginning to make a significant dent in the international wine market. Blessed with a healthy respect for both the old and new, not to mention a wealth of unusual, indigenous grape varieties, the winemakers of Portugal have much to offer.
Vila Santa
Alentejano
The always excellent Vila Santa of Joao Ramos, from the Alentejano region of Portugal, is produced from the local Aragones and Trincadeira cépages as well as smaller quantities of Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet. Aged in new oak, this brilliant, dark red wine surges forth with the purest, cleanest, laser-precise fruit thrust imaginable, backed by fine tannins and a gently cleansing acidity. It normally clocks in at a healthy 14% alcohol by volume, but you'd never know that owing to the wine’s uncanny ability to retain a refreshing lightness on the palate. Vila Santa manages to meld the best features of Portuguese tradition and modern winemaking, and deserves a place at your table.
Recently popping the cork on a bottle of the 2005 vintage, I elect to give the wine a trial run alongside a roast loin of pork. What can I say? Drinkable? Undeniably. Structured? Extremely, with the firm granular tannins and acidity, not to mention a considerable input from the oak, lending a palpable grip to the texture. Fruit? Dense and dark in tone, yet obviously held in check at the moment by the wine’s relative youthfulness.
Strange though it may seem, the 2005 reminds me of a young Barolo, as it offers up Piedmont notions of tar and roses – the hallmark of classic Nebbiolo. That said, others have dared to compare this creation of Joao Ramos with wines as disparate as a Grand Cru Classé Pauillac – Was it Parker himself? I believe so – or a good fleshy California Zinfandel.
Vila Santa represents the kind of wine that will have you scratching your head in bewilderment. If you're tired of all of those 'look-alikes', then this wine might just be your ticket to a whole new universe. It drinks superbly at the present when decanted in advance of serving. Still, this one has a way to go and so much more to show. I'm looking at another two years bare minimum for the 2005. And I do believe there’s still some of the 2004 stashed away as well. Thank goodness.
Price range: 3
ARGENTINA
In the space of a mere decade, Argentina has metamorphosed from a nation in economic crisis, unable to find a ready market for its wines, to a land full of vibrancy and viticultural promise. Over this period, Mendoza, the country’s principal grapevine region, has gained almost magical status for wine producers as well as wine lovers around the globe. The roots of excellence were always there. They simply needed to be nurtured.
2004 Masi Corbec
Mendoza
Masi’s Tupungato valley vineyards in Mendoza lie at approximately1000 meters of altitude. Made from grapes harvested primarily from the La Arboleda vineyard, and utilizing the appassimento method (in which selected grape bunches are laid on trays for some 3 weeks to partially dry), Corbec brings Corvina and Malbec together in a distinctive variation on Italian Amarone.
A slow-roasted chicken seasoned with fresh lemon, garlic, thyme and oregano proves the ideal occasion on which to broach the 2004 vintage of Masi’s Corbec. I honestly don't know quite what to expect from this Southern Hemisphere wine at first, but grow increasingly impressed as the meal progresses and the wine opens in the glass.
My initial sensation is of ultra-ripe berry fruit counterbalanced by spicy oak and a healthy dose of black pepper. Despite its relatively high alcohol level, the wine manages to dance deftly on the palate. There’s no sense of any tannic blockbuster syndrome such as one periodically encounters with Argentinian 100% Malbecs, but rather a delightful balance between fruit extract, svelte tannins and good acidity. Time in the glass reveals the role played by the Corvina component, as floral and cherry pit nuances emerge. All in all, an engaging and elegant wine I very much look forward to revisiting in the not too distant future.
Price range: 4
Norton Privada
Mendoza
A significant quantity of grapes for Norton’s Privada is sourced from the superb Perdriel Vineyard, which lies some 950 meters above sea level. The wine then spends 16 months in new French oak.
Comprised of 40% Malbec and 30% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this opaquely dark red wine displays lush raspberry-cherry-blackberry fruit complemented by a firm yet smooth tannic backdrop as well as a just barely discernible acidic component. Subtly uplifted herbaceous nuances, akin to mint, are also apparent, while time in the glass reveals background notions of tobacco and leather.
The 2004 Privada is quintessentially Argentine, but also quite Bordeaux-like in terms of its deft balance and structure. Though drinking nicely at the moment, this one has the stuffing to evolve positively over the next few years. It’s an excellent value, too!
Price range: 3
Clos de los Siete
Mendoza
Time to address Michel Rolland's essay on the limits of extraction, and his supposed masterpiece, from the Mendoza region in Argentina. Is all of the hype reflected in the contents?
I've tasted the 2003 vintage of Clos de los Siete on a few occasions and come away with slightly mixed feelings. All of the hallmarks of a great wine (and an ostensibly great value) seem to be present. The colour appears impenetrably dark and opaque, though strangely already evidencing initial signs of maturity towards the rim. The aroma’s at once gently seductive and forthcoming. And the flavour... well! Simply masses of the ripest, ultra-concentrated plum fruit imaginable, enhanced by delicate yet persistent spice and well-integrated oak. Velvety tannins and a quite restrained acidity, too. Powerful to the point of bordering on a Port-like persona rather than that of a mere table wine – this fact highlighted by the 15% alcoholic content.
This is a wine that demands one's attention, to the point of standing aside from any accompanying food instead of melding with it. And herein rests my conundrum. Would I prefer to serve Clos de los Siete feast-side, or just pour it on its own?
For those drawn to some of the big reds coming out of California and Australia, the answer may well be, "Yes." But I have to be honest; I actually found myself tiring of the 2003 late in the tableside proceedings, and was very content to cleanse my palate later with some single malt Scotch.
When all is said and done, however, have I gone ahead and purchased some of the recently released 2005 vintage? Yes. What the heck... I can always try pairing it with a 30-ounce rib steak liberally garnished with pepper.
I've tasted the 2003 vintage of Clos de los Siete on a few occasions and come away with slightly mixed feelings. All of the hallmarks of a great wine (and an ostensibly great value) seem to be present. The colour appears impenetrably dark and opaque, though strangely already evidencing initial signs of maturity towards the rim. The aroma’s at once gently seductive and forthcoming. And the flavour... well! Simply masses of the ripest, ultra-concentrated plum fruit imaginable, enhanced by delicate yet persistent spice and well-integrated oak. Velvety tannins and a quite restrained acidity, too. Powerful to the point of bordering on a Port-like persona rather than that of a mere table wine – this fact highlighted by the 15% alcoholic content.
This is a wine that demands one's attention, to the point of standing aside from any accompanying food instead of melding with it. And herein rests my conundrum. Would I prefer to serve Clos de los Siete feast-side, or just pour it on its own?
For those drawn to some of the big reds coming out of California and Australia, the answer may well be, "Yes." But I have to be honest; I actually found myself tiring of the 2003 late in the tableside proceedings, and was very content to cleanse my palate later with some single malt Scotch.
When all is said and done, however, have I gone ahead and purchased some of the recently released 2005 vintage? Yes. What the heck... I can always try pairing it with a 30-ounce rib steak liberally garnished with pepper.
Price range: 3
URUGUAY
Chile and Argentina... Watch out! Tiny Uruguay has arrived. From the honest and inexpensive to the pricier and more challenging, the wines of this South American nation are beginning to make inroads worldwide.
Amat
Cerro Chapeu, Rivera
Amat, from Bodegas Carrau, is quite a different beast from your normal, everyday red table wine. Here, low-yield Tannat grapes – think of the Madiran region in France – are fermented in open vats and then aged in new oak (half and half French and American).
A considerable tannic backbone is evident, but the wine’s ripeness still melds effortlessly into the deep, sharply focused berry fruit (cassis, blackberry and perhaps a smidgen of dark cherry). However, the underlying acidity is far more noticeable, providing an edgy, citrus-like twist on the finish. The colour of the wine, by the way, is a profound black-red.
I believe the 2002 Amat will provide a superb pour a few years down the road. And I also feel that this is the sort of wine we'll be paying more for in short order. It’s definitely one well worth searching out and cellaring over the medium term. But if you simply can't resist popping the cork, I'd suggest decanting an hour or so prior to serving.
Price range: 3
BRAZIL
If you only think of Brazil in terms of the Amazon and tropical forests, beaches, bustling cities and Carnival, think again. In the southern portion of the country, not far from the border with Uruguay, interesting things are happening wine-wise.
Quinta do Seival Castas Portuguesas
Campanha
The Miolo family came to Brazil from Venetia in 1897, and settled in the region of Campanha in the southern portion of Rio Grande do Sol.
At Estância Fortaleza do Seival, winemaker Adriano Miolo oversees the handpicking from his family’s non-irrigated vineyards of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro and Tinta Roriz grapes. Each of these varieties is then fermented and aged separately in new French oak barrels for approximately 10 months before being blended and bottled as Quinta do Seival Castas Portuguesas. I was a little shocked to find out that Michel Rolland acts as a consultant for the family. Where has this man not been? Nonetheless, the Miolos have ambitious plans for their estate.
I’m very pleasantly surprised by the Quinta do Seival Castas Portuguesas Safra 2004. The wine sports a deep red hue and opens up readily on the nose, displaying spice and floral scents as well as a fragrance of red fruits. It’s notably soft on the palate, with the supple tannins underlying notes of raisin, plum and strawberry as well as a gentle nip of pepper. I can see Pinot Noir fans taking to this wine quite easily, in fact.
Price range: 3
PERU
The tradition of winemaking in South America may well have first laid its roots in Peru, when Francisco de Carabantes planted grapevines in the alluvial soils of the Ica valley during the middle of the 16th Century. Today, Peru’s wineries, though relatively small in number, are gaining the attention of adventurous wine lovers abroad.
Viña Tacama Selección Especial
Vallée d'Ica
Now it’s time to make mention of a real eye-opener of my vinous adventure. The 2006 Tacama Selección Especial is produced from Tannat and Petit Verdot grapes, and undergoes maturation in oak. Tannat is reputed for its role in the wines of Madiran in France, while Petit Verdot plays a minor (though often crucial) part in the mélange of the better reds from Bordeaux. Neither is exactly known for any lack of hard tannic characteristics.
Imagine my surprise, then, at first sipping this absolutely velvety concoction from South America. The richly coloured wine comes across as a very smooth, mature, terroir-driven mouthful, with a unique earthy element lurking behind every corner of the ripe, soft plum fruit. There’s even a touch of eucalyptus on the finish. Nonetheless, it’s the textural quality of the Tacama Selección Especial that really shines. Ideal for broaching now, this alluring wine proves a perfect match for crusted rack of lamb. It may not be cheap for a dark horse. But what a horse!
Price range: 2
SOUTH AFRICA
The winemakers of South Africa suffered considerably and lengthily from the effects of apartheid, as export markets closed their doors. How matters have changed! Indeed, there has never been a better time to partake of the multitude of fine offerings from the strikingly beautiful vineyards of this nation.
La Motte
Franschhoek Valley
Many of us have imbibed our fair share of South African Shiraz, and likely enjoyed the experience more often than not. Here's one to take note of. For what sets the 2003 La Motte apart from much of the competition is its uplifted and extremely fruit-driven balancing acidity, which serves to bring the core berry character of the wine into sharp focus and prevent matters from devolving into over-the-top ripe-and-tannic territory. This is a good value wine that will pair well with a wide variety of dishes.
Price range: 3
AUSTRALIA
Roughly two decades have passed since Australia emerged as a powerhouse among the winegrowing countries of the world. And although the nation is perhaps too well known for big reds at tiny prices, it can also lay claim to some quite astounding wines.
d'Arenberg The Laughing Magpie
McLaren Vale
I’ve expected this one to be a ripe and ready sort of Aussie beast, and am not in the least disappointed. Certainly, the Viognier component exudes a softening effect while also adding a touch greater complexity to the typical Shiraz flavour spectrum. If ever a wine should evoke the 'black raspberry' descriptor, then d’Arenberg’s 2004 The laughing Magpie does. Masses of ripe berry fruit, teetering on the brink of jammy yet held in check by firm tannins and a sage dose of black pepper as well as oak-derived spice overtones, inundate the palate. The acidic backbone comes across in a well integrated fashion, as opposed to that almost artificial citrus-like acidity that plagues so many other Australian reds. Very drinkable and enjoyable! It pairs perfectly with roast pork tenderloin, by the way.
Price range: 4
CANADA
The adventure continues.
There’s much to be excited about as regards the Canadian wine scene. With the Erie and Niagara areas of Ontario already firmly established and Prince Edward County further to the east poised to become the next great grape growing region, the central portion of the country seems well on its way to capturing an even wider audience for its quality wines. Quebec, too, has begun to attract attention for its increasingly sophisticated dry table wines, its sweet ice wines and its fabulous ice ciders.
But of late, the real fireworks display seems to be occurring way out west in British Columbia's Okanagan valley, where producers are crafting some of the most richly expressive wines imaginable - no wonder, given the exceptional nature of the locale.
Mission Hill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Okanagan
A pleasing Okanagan from that infamous hot year (I was actually there in July of 2003 and can attest to the oven-like temperatures), this one avoids any over-the-top cooked or alcoholic excesses, coming across as balanced and silky smooth with a plush texture. There are touches of oak-derived spice, but it's the Cabernet fruit that carries the day. Made in a fairly ready to drink style, the 2003 will nonetheless hold well, and possibly even improve marginally, over the next few years.
Price range: 3
Osoyoos Larose, Le Grand Vin
Okanagan
When a red table wine from the Okanagan is being touted as the Canadian version of Opus One, one simply has to take notice. The Osoyoos Larose vineyards (there are three adjacent ones that total 60 acres in size) are located on the mountain slopes that rise above Lake Osoyoos in the southern region of the Okanagan. Soils here consist of a combination of sand, clay, rock and gravel, with the latter two components more prevalent in the higher portions. Pascal Madevon ages his wine in a mixture of new and 1-year old French oak casks. The wine is already establishing itself in international markets.
The meld for the 2003 vintage comprises 75% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet France. And the wine clocks in at 13.4% alcohol by volume.
This winter past, I broached my first bottle of the 2003 Osoyoos Larose, decanting the wine two hours before dinner and then pouring it into oversized goblets fully 15 minutes prior to the feast commencing... to no end! The wine, sporting a profound blackish red colour, was, at this stage in its evolution, extremely closed. And there was little to discern on the nose initially apart from some demure floral-fruit fragrances.
On the palate, the Osoyoos Larose took me aback somewhat. Given the intense, prolonged heat of the 2003 Okanagan growing season, I was expecting a wine struggling not to appear over the top. Nothing could be further from reality. In fact, I was totally surprised by the lightness of texture and sense of balance - very Bordeaux-like. This is not to say that there was any lack of intensity. In fact, the wine exuded an effortlessly focused tone.
One hour into the glass and matters began to improve considerably, with scented notions of plum and mulberry fruit drifting upward as cedar nuances lurked in the background. Taste-wise, I picked up a subtle peppery touch - no doubt from the influence of the oak. There was also a very discrete earthy component suggestive of sandy soils. The acidic backbone was moderately apparent. But the tannins, fine as they were and leaving a delicate trail of granular texture on the tongue as they did, persisted right through the very lengthy finish. If I were limited to one word to describe the wine at this point, that word would have to be 'firm'.
I'm not touching this one again for another 3 years... at least!
Price range: 4
WIDE HORIZONS
From Tunisia’s Grombalia region to the Okanagan valley of western Canada, I’ve hopefully triggered your interest in giving one or a few of the wines mentioned a try. Rest assured, though, that the range of vinous delights covered here is but the ‘tip of the iceberg’. France’s Buzet, Gaillac, Faugères, Saint Chinian and Corsica vineyards, the Salento and Sicily regions of Italy, the United States of America’s Bell Mountain area of Texas and the Pacific Northwest, the northern Baja of Mexico, New Zealand, southern England and Hebei province in China represent yet more places where exciting things are happening wine-wise.
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Doug Kuebler (Jazznut) is an inveterate aficionado and collector of wines and whiskies from around the world. Doug has organized wine and food seminars, written extensively on wines and liquors, and also gained something of a reputation for his detailed analyses of cigars. His latest book set, The Tumbler's Guide to Single Malt Scotch Whisky: Desk Reference and Field Guide, is available from Topeda Hill Publishing.